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I recently spent a lovely long weekend in New York City, enjoying spectacular fall weather and checking out some new-to-me sights. It was my first time in the city since 2019, and I was curious about how the protocols and the city's vibe would affect our experience.
Because the weather was so fine, we spent a lot of time outdoors. When we were indoors, attractions and most sit-down dining spots asked to see proof of vaccination and, in some cases, ID. These were not required at coffee shops or for carryout dining. Masks were required for indoor attractions and on public transportation.
Chelsea and the High Line
We arrived around noon on a Friday and were grateful for early check-in at our hotel. We dropped our bags and headed to Chelsea Market, the former Nabisco factory turned iconic food hall that's long been on my wish list. We wandered through the market, which was smaller and cozier than I imagined, stopping in at shops and browsing menus.
We decided on Miznon, an Israeli street food eatery by Chef Eyal Shani. I tried the deliciously spicy Wild Mushroom Pita, and my husband Brian had the Rib Eye Minute Steak Pita. Both were excellent!
During our visit, the market featured an art show called "The Streets of Chelsea." The collection of photographs by Leslie Fratkin documents the pandemic's effects on Chelsea and its residents. Interesting and thought-provoking, the show runs through October 31.
From Chelsea Market, we walked about a half block to the High Line, an abandoned train line reimagined as urban park. Perched 30 feet above street level, the pedestrian walkway has beautiful gardens and spectacular city views.
The High Line has a fascinating history. The railroad ran on street-level tracks beginning in the mid-1800s, creating dangerous conditions for pedestrians. Train accidents killed hundreds of people over the years, and 10th Ave became known as "Death Avenue." In the 1920s, men on horseback rode ahead of the trains, waving red flags to warn pedestrians of oncoming locomotives.
In the early 1930s, the city built elevated tracks to move freight traffic off busy streets. For the next few decades, millions of tons of meat, produce, and dairy ran along this route. The rise of trucking caused rail use to dwindle, and the last train on the High Line ran in 1980, toting three carloads of frozen turkeys.
The railway lay dormant for years, becoming overgrown and unsightly. In 1999, two area residents began advocating and raising funds to preserve the High Line as a public space. The first section of the park opened in 2009, and additional segments were added through 2019.
The High Line has a fascinating history. The railroad ran on street-level tracks beginning in the mid-1800s, creating dangerous conditions for pedestrians. Train accidents killed 540 people by 1910, and 10th Ave became known as "Death Avenue." In the 1920s, men on horseback rode ahead of the trains, waving red flags to warn pedestrians of oncoming locomotives.
In the early 1930s, the city built elevated tracks to move freight traffic off busy streets. For the next few decades, millions of tons of meat, produce, and dairy ran along this route. The rise of trucking caused rail use to dwindle, and the last train on the High Line ran in 1980, toting three carloads of frozen turkeys.
The railway lay dormant for years, becoming overgrown and unsightly. In 1999, two area residents began advocating and raising funds to preserve the High Line as a public space. The first section of the park opened in 2009, and additional segments were added through 2019.
These days, the 1.45 mile-long greenway wraps around converted warehouses and modern residences. Over 500 native plants, grasses, wildflowers, and trees sprout from the tracks, and public art abounds. Visitors were a mix of tourists and residents, some carrying groceries or schoolbags.
The Cloisters, Pastrami, and a Central Park Wedding
The following day we headed uptown to The Cloisters, the Metropolitan Museum of Art's collection of medieval treasures in Washington Heights. Though it's off the beaten path, we found The Cloisters well worth a visit.
The museum sits on a leafy hill overlooking the Hudson River and makes you feel like you're miles and centuries away from the busy city. It draws its name from four medieval cloisters moved from France to New York by an American art dealer in the early 20th century. These form four outdoor courtyards, each filled with exquisite gardens, artworks, and architectural elements.
Indoors, 5,000 works of art, mainly from the 12th to 15th centuries, are housed in chapels and galleries created to evoke a sense of monastic life in medieval Europe. You can browse at your own pace or follow the audio guide.
After exploring the museum for a few hours, we took the subway to the Upper West Side, grabbed sandwiches from Barney Greengrass, and enjoyed a picnic in Central Park. We even spotted a wedding taking place as we strolled through the park!
The Roosevelt Island Tram
Before dinner, we hopped aboard the Roosevelt Island Tram to catch the sunset. The aerial tramway takes passengers 250 feet above the East River and provides a truly spectacular view of the city.
The tram leaves every 15 minutes from 59th Street and Second Avenue. The cabin holds up to 125 people, and seating is available for maybe 10-12 people. The 4-minute ride ends at Tramway Plaza on Roosevelt Island. You can spend a few hours exploring, but this time we turned right around and rode back.
The Tenement Museum and Food Tour
We rode the NYC ferry down the East River for a quick Wall Street stop on our last full day. Then it was on to the Tenement Museum and food tour on the Lower East Side.
The Tenement Museum has also been on my list for a long time and didn't disappoint. Visitors can select from a variety of tour options tied to a theme or a time period. We chose Day in the Life: 1911 because it's the era my grandparents emigrated from Ireland to New York.
The museum operates in a restored tenement that housed thousands of residents in the 19th and 20th centuries. The apartments in the building were boarded up for 50 years until the Tenement Museum purchased the site and opened up this unintended time capsule.
Our tour followed the life of the Rogarshevsky family in 1911. They aren't fictional or reimagined characters; we visited the unit this family lived in, saw artifacts from their daily life, and examined their census report. Later, our guide took us to the public bathhouse and pushcart market sites, both vital to the community.
Following the tour, we walked a few blocks to join a walking food tour. Here we learned more about the influence of Eastern European and Russian immigrants and sampled a mix of traditional and contemporary cuisine, including pickles, knishes, and cupcakes. Our guide was knowledgeable and entertaining, and the outing was enjoyable (and delicious!).
Our last stop was Essex Market, the gorgeous ultra-modern home to the historic public market. Butchers, fishmongers, and grocers share the space with restaurants, coffee shops, and a demonstration kitchen. An Oktoberfest cooking class was underway as we passed by.
New York has an inexhaustible wealth of things to see and do. Every trip is different than the last! We had a wonderful weekend making memories with our son and his girlfriend and exploring some new-to-us places.
Are you itching for a getaway to the Big Apple? If NYC is on your wish list, I can help create the perfect-for-you itinerary. Schedule a chat with me here.
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