Ireland's Second City is One of Europe's Best Food Cities

Name a city that pays tribute to its proud dairy farming heritage with a Butter Museum.

It's not a city in the US heartland; it's actually Cork, Ireland.

Photo Credit: Eileen Paulson

The Butter Museum sits in a small storefront next to the historic Firkin Crane Building, a neat round structure built in 1855 to house the largest butter exchange in the world at that time. A long tradition of dairy and cattle farming, fishing, and whiskey production foretell Cork's current reputation as a vibrant city and foodie destination.

The second-largest city in the Republic of Ireland, Cork sits on an island in the River Lee on the south coast. St. Finbar founded Cork as a monastic settlement in the 6th century, and it later became a Viking trading post and the site of conquests and warfare over centuries. The city has plenty of historical and architectural points of interest as a result, beginning with its churches.

Points of Interest

Cork's red and white sporting colors were inspired by the red sandstone and white limestone of the tower housing the Shandon Bells at St. Anne's Church.

Visitors can climb 132 steps to take in spectacular views from the top of the tower or stop along the way to ring the Shandon Bells. St. Anne's is one of few churches in the world that allows visitors this privilege. For a small entrance fee, guests can ring out a tune on the automated bells.

The Cork City Gaol was hailed as "the finest in 3 kingdoms" when it opened in 1824. With its Georgian/Gothic architecture, the prison resembles a castle from the outside. The gaol closed in 1923 and went on to house a radio station before falling into disrepair in the 1950s.

After a major renovation, it re-opened as a tourist attraction in 1993. Visitors wander through the halls past cells inhabited by life-like wax figures. Grafitti on the walls and an audio-video presentation help paint a picture of life inside the prison.

For some of the best city views, take a stroll along the ramparts of 400-year-old Elizabeth Fort. Also worth your time is a visit to the stately University College Cork campus, set on the banks of the River Lee.

Cork's Vibrant Arts Scene

Named the European Capital of Culture in 2005, Cork continues to thrive as a hub for the arts. Here is just a sample of its offerings.

The Crawford Art Gallery, known locally as "the Crawford," was designated a National Cultural Institution in 2006. The gallery, which resides in the former Customs House, is "dedicated to the visual arts, both historic and contemporary." The Crawford welcomed over a half-million visitors in 2019.

The Triskel Arts Centre showcases Cork's leading contemporary art, serves as an arthouse cinema, and houses a record label. Set in a converted 18th-century church, the multidisciplinary space also serves as a venue for live Classical and Jazz concerts.

The Cork Opera House, with its long and storied 160-year history as southern Ireland's premier venue for opera, concerts, and other live performances, resides in a gorgeous, modern building with a striking glass facade.

Cork is a Foodie Destination

Michelin star restaurants, fantastic pubs, farm to table food, and legendary distilleries are some of Cork's homegrown assets as a gastronomer's paradise.

The granddaddy of Cork's culinary lineage is its English Market. Created in 1788, the market has proudly served the people of Cork "in the face of famine, flood, war and multiple recessions." Visitors can stroll through the venue, sampling everything from cheeses, cured meats, and fish to wine, olives, and chocolates while enjoying a chat with vendors along the way.

Vendor K O'Connell's Fishmongers began as a small fish stall in the market over 50 years ago. Founder Kay O'Connell's two small sons, Pat and Paul, accompanied their mother on her daily trips to Castletownbere on the Beara Peninsula in West Cork, a three-hour drive from the city. Today, Kay's commitment to supplying high-quality fresh fish to the Cork market is carried on by her grandchildren.

Cork's artisanal food movement began in the 1970's when Veronica Steele started experimenting with farmhouse-style cheeses. There is now a vast range of fine-food producers across the county, from smokehouses to coffee roasters.

The Cork area is also home to fantastic restaurants, pubs, coffee shops, and several Michelin star restaurants. The Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2020 included Bastion in Kinsale, Ballydehob's Chestnut, Japanese restaurant ichigo ichie, Mews Restaurant in Baltimore, Dillon's in Timoleague, and Bib Gourmand.

County Cork boasts more craft breweries than any other county in Ireland. Franciscan Well, founded over 20 years ago on the site of a 13th-century Franciscan Monastery, brews delicacies such as Blarney Blonde, Rebel Red, and Shandon Stout. New breweries continue to emerge in Cork, including Eight Degrees Brewing Co and micro-breweries Elbow Lane and Rising Sons.

Plan to spend a few days in Cork and visit the nearby towns of Cobh and Kinsale, and of course, Blarney Castle.