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Whether you're a casual sipper or an aspiring somm, planning some US wine travel may be the perfect antidote to the stay-at-home blues. No better place to visit than Napa Valley, the heart of modern US wine tourism and the king of California wine regions.
Napa Valley
There are many US wine regions, and every state has wineries, from 2 in Mississippi to over 4,000 in California. But most wine and travel experts agree that for wine lovers, Napa should top the list.
With hundreds of wineries dotting its rich soil, Napa Valley is one of the world's foremost wine regions. Even if you're not a connoisseur, the pastoral landscapes, picturesque towns, world-class cuisine, and near-perfect weather will delight you.
For all its strengths, the Napa Valley was hard hit first by the pandemic and then by disastrous fires in the late summer of 2020. With the care and resilience of the region's grape growers, many Napa wineries are open for outdoor service now and expect to thrive in the months ahead. (*Note: openings will vary; some vineyards have paused in-person tastings. Call ahead to confirm and make reservations)
Planning Your Wine Tour
First, a few suggestions to help you have the best possible experience during your visit:
For a winery tour, plan on 3-4 stops per day. Start each day with a good breakfast and schedule food and water breaks. Stay hydrated!
Hire a driver or tour guide so your entire party can enjoy the trip. Uber is a less-reliable alternative because of spotty cell service in rural areas where many wineries reside.
Make reservations, especially in our post-Covid era.
Plan to bring some souvenir bottles home, either in checked luggage on your return flight or by enlisting a local shipping service to send your wine home.
Calistoga
Five towns and four regions dot vineyard-covered hillsides across Napa's 30-mile long valley. Up north, Calistoga got its start as a spa town in 1859 thanks to its hot-water geysers and mineral and mud springs. Today, over two dozen area spas and resorts in the area offer hot-spring and other restorative treatments.
Despite its northern position in the region, the Calistoga AVA (American Viticultural Area) is one of the warmest parts of the valley, noted for reds like Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel.
Over 50 wineries populate the region, ranging from family-owned boutique wineries to grand estates. Visit Chateau Montelena (wine club members can request private access to the Jade Garden pavilion), Sterling Vineyards, Clos Pegase, and Castello di Amorosa, a Tuscan castle and winery.
In town, enjoy the Old West vibe on Lincoln Ave, visit California's Old Faithful Geyser, and soak in the Olympic-sized mineral pools at Indian Springs Resort & Spa. Make brunch reservations at Lovina for some farm-to-table goodness served on the front porch.
Stay at Solage, a 22-acre resort surrounded by mountains and vineyards. Small-town charm meets urban sophistication here, with contemporary design in a beautiful setting. Onsite, Michelin star Solbar serves up local farm-fresh food in a relaxed atmosphere.
St. Helena
A few miles away, Route 128 becomes Main Street in St. Helena, a charming town that is known as Napa Valley's Main St. Settled in the 1850s, St. Helena marries captivating historical sites with innovative wine and cuisine.
Warmer and with less wind and fog than some neighboring appellations, St. Helena's key varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, and Zinfandel.
St. Helena is home to over 150 wineries, so options abound. Make sure to visit Joseph Phelps Vineyards for the Insignia Blending Experience, Duckhorn Vineyards, and the Makery at Prisoner Wine Co. When it reopens, the tour and barrel tastings in Del Dotto's opulently-adorned Cave is a fun experience.
Michelin-star restaurants compete with casual eateries for the spotlight in St. Helena. Check out the Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch for brunch and PRESS for prime dry-aged beef, fresh seafood, and locally-sourced vegetables. PRESS is also home to the most extensive collection of Napa Valley wines in the world.
Enjoy lunch at the Brasswood and ask for their signature mozzarella dish as an appetizer. Save room for a milkshake or burger at the famous Gott's Roadside, and be sure to start your day with The Model Bakery's legendary English Muffins.
The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St. Helena offers cooking demonstrations and tours in its 19th-century building. You may also enjoy visiting the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum (Stevenson once said "wine is bottled poetry") or the Bale Grist Mill for a taste of history.
Rutherford
Just a bit further south, the tiny hamlet of Rutherford sits in the Rutherford AVA. Not officially a town, Rutherford was founded on a Mexican land grant that settler George Yount gifted to his grandaughter Elizabeth when she married Thomas Rutherford in 1864.
The soil in the area is known for producing a singular, spice-like quality that produces soft, dusty tannins and a particular fragrance in its famed Cabernets. This "Rutherford Dust" is unique to this terroir and to the merlot, cabernet franc, and zinfandel wines that are also produced there.
Visit Cakebread Cellars, farm-style Alpha Omega Winery, and Rutherford Hill Winery. Make time to see the original Inglenook Winery, patiently restored over 40 years by filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola and his wife, Eleanor.
Dining options include classic steakhouse Rutherford Grill and the Restaurant at Auberge, Napa Valley's first fine-dining establishment and ten-time Michelin Star recipient. If you're curious about which foods pair best with "Rutherford dust" wines, a lunch tasting on the terrace at Round Pond Estate will fill you in.
While in Rutherford, stay at the iconic Auberge du Soleil, the area's only Forbes Five Star resort. Inspired by the south of France, the 33-acre resort offers fine dining, luxurious spa treatments, and a sculpture garden in a magnificent country setting.
Oakville
Small but storied, Oakville has a distinguished place in California's wine-making history. It began as a water stop for steam trains carrying tourists to the resorts in Calistoga in the 1860s. In 1868, Ohio transplant HW Crabb began planting what would become the To Kalon Vineyard, now recognized as one of the world's great vineyards. Today, To Kalon provides grapes to Robert Mondavi Winery and other acclaimed producers.
Oakville's Mediterranean climate and well-drained soils make ideal conditions for Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, and particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, for which it's so well known.
Wineries range from tiny, boutiques to Napa staple Robert Mondavi Winery, which offers a tasting and comprehensive tour. Also visit B Cellars for their seated food and wine pairings, Silver Oak Cellars, Cardinale, and gorgeous Far Niente Winery.
No visit to Oakville is complete without a stop at Oakville Grocery, the perfect spot to pick up a picnic lunch, have a gourmet meal on their patio, or grab some snacks for the car (like their truffle potato chips!).
Yountville
As you head further south, you'll soon come to Yountville, Napa's culinary capital. Its founder, George Calvert Yount, was the first permanent settler in Napa Valley and the first person to plant grapes there.
Yountville specializes in full-bodied Cabernets and airy Sauvignon Blancs, thanks to its moderate, marine-influenced climate, featuring cool summer mornings, breezy afternoons, and chilly nights.
The town encourages visitors to practice passeggiata - the art of the stroll. Walkable and friendly, the Michelin-starred restaurants, tasting rooms, arts venues, and selection of accommodations are within strolling distance.
Yountville is a next-level foodie paradise. From Michelin-star meals from chefs like Thomas Keller and Philippe Jeanty to comfort food to artisan chocolates and dreamy bakeries, there's too much to cover here. My advice is to plan ahead so you can indulge to your heart's content.
When you're ready to sample some wine, there are several excellent tasting rooms in town. Visit Priest Ranch, Stewart Cellars, and V Wine Cellars. For winery tours, check out Cliff Lede Vineyards or Girard Winery.
Yountville is also an arts destination, with numerous galleries, a performing arts theater that is home to the Symphony Napa Valley, an annual film festival, and a theater company. The Yountville Art Walk includes 35 outdoor sculptures from artists around the globe.
Stay in town at gracious Bardessono Hotel. Contemporary, luxurious, and peaceful, Bardessono's intentional, exceptional service allows guests to truly unplug. Yountville's wineries, marketplace, and arts venues are within walking distance.
Napa
Near the southern end of Napa Valley, the city of Napa is the largest of the towns and the county seat. Perched along the Napa River, the community started as a hub for trade and transportation in the 1840s. The city thrived as a retreat for miners during the Gold Rush and later became an industrial center.
While the Victorian-era architecture from earlier times remains, nowadays the river is a hub of superb restaurants, tasting rooms, and shops. The waterway is lazier now, enjoyed by visitors on a gondola ride or strolling along the city's riverwalk.
While it's the front door to one of the world's Great Wine Regions, part of the charm of staying "in town" is that visitors may sample the best of Napa Valley in a variety of tasting rooms in the compact, walkable downtown. Try Vintner's Collective, Gustavo Wines, and JaM Cellars, for starters.
The restaurant scene includes world-class cuisine, flavorful international fare, regional specialties, and cafes. Consider Siena in the Meritage Resort, Zuzu for tapas, or Celadon for Napa-style steaks and seafood.
There's a lot to do between dining and wine tastings. Stop by Oxbow Public Market, a 40,000 marketplace and local gathering spot for food, wine, artisan products, books, flowers, and more. Take in a performance at the Napa Valley Opera House, visit the Napa Farmers Market, or take a River History Tour by kayak.
To make your visit extra-special, book a ride on the iconic Napa Valley Wine Train, watch the sun rise over the Valley from a hot air balloon, or visit during a special event, like the Napa Valley Film Festival.
Plan to stay at Senza Hotel, a tranquil two-acre retreat tucked between Yountville and Napa. Luxuriously appointed rooms overlook vineyards and rolling Napa Valley scenery. Some mornings, you may see hot air balloons over the skyline as you sip your coffee.
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